Doori sits on Nordre Frihavnsgade on Østerbro, and it arrives with a track record rather than a launch plan. There are four locations across Sweden already, and this one makes it five. It was founded by Helen Lee, and the thing that carries over is the sauce work: every sauce in the building is made in house, and the chicken gets glazed to order instead of sitting in a tray waiting for you.
It is open every day from 11 in the morning until 9 at night, which makes it a real lunch option and not just a dinner one. This is counter food built around rice bowls and boxes, so it works as well carried home as it does eaten there.
The Korean fried chicken is the reason to come. Fried twice for maximum crunch, then glazed by hand, and you choose how it gets dressed: gochujang, garlic sauce, or the chili sauce that will have you sweating.
Then the chicken mayo, which is the one we keep thinking about. Soft folds of scrambled egg over steamed rice, crispy chicken on top, a generous pour of teriyaki and creamy mayo laid across in thick ribbons, then crisp seaweed over the lot. Total comfort in a bowl.
Pickled radish between bites to reset the palate, and kimchi on the side.
The fried dumplings are a different thing entirely. Cream cheese inside, a crisp blistered shell outside, steam still coming off them as they go straight into the sweet chili.
If you do not eat meat, the broccoli version does the same job. Same crunch, and it takes the hot sauce well, which is more than most vegetable versions manage.
And the fries come with kimchi mayo, made in house just like every other sauce here.
Three house sauces land on the table, and they are worth understanding before you start dipping. Go is the gochujang one, red but gentle. So is garlic and soy, the sweet one. He is Go turned up, and it is the one you will feel.
Take all three and work across them. If heat is not your thing, the garlic sauce is the pick: sweet, savory and a little sticky.
This is a weeknight dinner that needs no planning, and a strong lunch if you work anywhere near Østerbro. Come hungry, split a bowl and a portion of chicken between two, and put the dumplings in the middle for everyone.
Copenhagen has been waiting for more proper Korean fried chicken, and Doori turns up with four Swedish locations of practice behind it.
But now… the real question is… where do we go next?
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